Xiapei

Origins and evolution

The garment first appeared during the Qin and Han dynasties as a thin silk scarf. By the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern periods, it functioned as an embroidered collar. The Tang era saw it become a popular neck-and-shoulder wrap. The Song dynasty introduced the peizhui pendant at the front end to display wealth. Ming rulers standardized designs with specific bird patterns for different ranks. The Qing period shifted the style to a sleeveless waistcoat with tassels.

Design and materials

Craftsmen used silk, gold thread, lace, and various jewels to create these pieces. The peizhui ornament hung from the front and could be made of silver, jade, or gold. Embroidery featured clouds, pheasants, peacocks, mandarin ducks, magpies, or branches depending on the wearer's rank. The Qing version included colored tassels and reached below the knee. The Korean hapi was typically a wide black silk cape worn over the shoulders.

Royal and official use

Queens wore the xiapei daily while wives of senior officials reserved it for formal occasions. The Ming court mandated specific embroidery for each rank level. Women granted first or second rank wore golden cloud and pheasant patterns. Third and fourth ranks used peacock motifs. Fifth rank displayed mandarin ducks. Sixth and seventh ranks showed magpies. Eighth and ninth ranks featured branch patterns. These rules applied to titled women across the empire.

Spread to Korea

The Ming dynasty bestowed the hapi upon Korean royalty along with other ceremonial garments. The Annals of Joseon record gifts sent between 1403 and the seventeenth century. Korean queens, crown princesses, and dowagers wore the wide black silk cape. The practice continued through the Goryeo and Joseon periods until the wedding of King Yeongchin in 1922. The item remained a ceremonial staple for royal women for centuries.

How Xiapei is kept

Brides wear the xiapei over their main wedding robes. The garment hangs from the neck or shoulders. A heavy pendant rests at the front center. Family members often provide jewelry for the pendant. The bride wears this outfit during the ceremony and subsequent receptions. The design reflects her family's status and connection to tradition.

When and where

The custom occurs during the wedding ceremony and engagement phases. Historically, it was worn on special events after the wedding. The date depends on the lunar calendar and family schedules.

The practice originated in China and spread to Korea. It is strongest among Han Chinese communities preserving traditional dress. Korean royal courts also adopted the style historically.

What Xiapei means

The embroidery indicates social rank and family prestige. The pendant displays wealth through precious metals and stones. Wearing the garment connects the bride to historical traditions of female dignity and status. The specific patterns honor imperial regulations and ancestral customs.

Who takes part

• The bride: Wears the xiapei over her wedding robes
• Wealthy families: Provide jewelry for the peizhui pendant
• Ming emperors: Grant ranks and dictate embroidery patterns
• Korean queens: Receive the hapi as a ceremonial gift

If you are a guest

Guests observe the intricate embroidery and pendant details. They recognize the social status indicated by the patterns. Visitors may comment on the craftsmanship of the silk and metalwork. The attire commands respect due to its historical significance.

Then and now

The shape has evolved from a scarf to a waistcoat and back to modern interpretations. Commoners adopted the style after elites restricted it. Today, it appears in traditional wedding photography and cultural festivals. Some families still wear authentic pieces for ceremonies.

On the wedding table

Symbols: Gold and jewellery

Questions people ask about Xiapei

See also

JokduriA traditional Korean coronet worn by women during weddings and other special occasions.Traditional Chinese wedding dressThe wedding attire worn by Han Chinese couples, from the fengguan xiapei to the qunguaXiuhefuA modern two-piece Chinese bridal outfit inspired by Qing dynasty styles and popularized by a 2001 television drama.HonggaitouThe red bridal veil worn by Han Chinese brides to cover their faces before the wedding night.

Good reading and sources

• Xiapei on WikipediaEncyclopedia
• More photos on Wikimedia CommonsPhotos and video
• Wikidata recordOpen data

It may contain mistakes. Wedding customs differ from one family, village and community to the next, and the people who keep them know them best. If something is wrong, tell us. Last refreshed 2026-10-06.